As we drove through Zone D, the area of the park we had been assigned to that morning by the forest service, our guide stopped every gypsy and canter (a large, open vehicle that seats 20) to ask if they’d seen tiger, or any signs. We came across a group of vehicles waiting in stillness: it was reported that an elderly tigress was spotted in a nearby grove. We waited, too.

After awhile, we gave up and drove on, stopping to look at some of the other species that call Ranthambhore home. Brilliantly coloured kingfisher birds darted over the waters of a small lake while an enormous crocodile stretched out on the bank. Large sambar and spotted deer grazed on the stubby grass. Graceful white egrets soared and chattering monkeys and langurs played in the trees.

There was more than enough to keep my interest as we drove about, on earthen roads and forest paths, following hunches, clues and tips from guides in other vehicles. We heard that a big male tiger had crossed the main road. Our ever-enthusiastic guide incited the driver to race to the spot, to give us time to look around.

As our allotted time in the park drew to a close, we continued to follow every hunch, every lead. Our guide never gave up. We drove slowly out of the park, still on the edges of our seats, still hoping, still craning to look in every direction. Finally, we reached the gate. My first tiger safari was over.

It was my first time, so I knew I would have to be really lucky to spot one. I did not feel disappointed. It was a wonderful morning and a great adventure. I loved every part of it: getting up at dawn, sitting in the back of the gypsy with camera in hand, the thrill of the chase, the sight of many beautiful species in their natural habitat and, finally, returning to our hotel for a big, hearty breakfast on the sun-dappled lawn afterwards.

Of course, I would have liked to see a tiger. I still don’t know what it’s like to see one in its natural setting. For now, they must remain an elusive mystery, though I am determined to go back, next time to another park, where tiger density is higher.

India is tiger central

Ranthambhore National Park is perhaps India’s most famous tiger reserve, but it’s only one of 39 found throughout the country. India is home to about half of all tigers found in the wild on earth and efforts are underway to protect them, through the National Tiger Conservation Authority (formerly called Project Tiger). Authorities have claimed some success with the release of the 2010 tiger census figures: the number of tigers in India increased by 20% over the past four years, from 1,411 to 1,706 (the new number includes 70 tigers in the Sunderbans never counted before).

Many tiger reserves, like Ranthambhore, have a well-established infrastructure in place for tourists. Lodges, camps, resorts and hotels are usually found within driving distance of the tourist-friendly parks such as Corbett Tiger Reserve, Kanha National Park, Bandhavgarh National Park, Pench Tiger Reserve, Sunderbans Tiger Reserve and Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary.

Tiger tourism is restricted by the number of tourists allowed into the parks each day, and demand outstrips supply so it is wise to plan and book in advance. The best time of year to visit is October to April (in fact, most parks are closed during the summer rainy season), and early morning or late afternoon are best times for sightings. You can book your safari through your hotel or, for Ranthambhore, via this website: http://www.rajasthanwildlife.in/.

It’s less expensive to travel in a canter, which holds 20 people; but a gypsy, carrying a maximum of six, is less noisy and more agile. Some parks, such as Bandhavgarh and Kanha, virtually guarantee a tiger sighting as they use a system of spotters.

My advice is to book in advance; bring a jacket, hat, sunscreen, water and camera; and enjoy the experience. Even if you don’t see a tiger, you will still have the wonderful opportunity of exploring India’s lush jungles.

Mariellen Ward is a Toronto-based freelance writer whose passion is traveling in India. She writes for many newspapers, magazines and website, publishes an India-inspired travel blog, Breathedreamgo.com, recently published her first book, Song of India: Tales of Travel and Transformation, and leads custom tours to some of her favourite places in India.