In a move that sent both of our mothers into a maternal tizzy, my wife and I recently made the decision to go to Israel and the Middle East this summer. While admittedly tensions in the region have been running a bit hot recently, our choice to go now was based on the following factors:
1. We've both always wanted to go;
2. Due to scheduling conflicts, this will be our only real vacation in the next year;
3. We're incredibly stubborn; and
4. It seems that tensions are always high in the Middle East no matter when you go, so why not go now?
More reasonably, a close friend from Tel Aviv has let me know that he has never encountered any conflicts or major issues in Israel, despite living there his whole life. Combined with our overwhelming stubbornness, that was endorsement enough to get us to book our tickets.
Pre-planning all the details for a trip is an idea I usually shudder at, however I realized for this trip it would need to be different. While much of that planning is necessary due to trying to see a wealth of sights in a very limited time, an additional issue comes from the fact that visiting multiple countries in the Middle East can be logistically challenging.
Getting the necessary visas is always an important consideration when traveling abroad. While Canadians are fortunate enough to get visas automatically for an extremely large number of countries, the Middle East has unique political considerations in this regard.
Jordan and Egypt have good diplomatic relations with Israel and so hopping between these countries and Israel to see the sights is not a problem. For other Arab countries, however, it can be extremely difficult.
For example, Canadians have little problem getting into Lebanon when heading there directly. We get a visa at the airport when landing in Lebanon and it is a simple, standard procedure. However, nobody with an Israeli stamp in their passport may enter Lebanon, whether by air or by land. If your passport has an Israeli stamp, you will be turned away at the border, regardless of which country you are entering from. It also doesn't matter if the visit to Israel had occurred three years previously - if you have the stamp in your passport, many Arab countries, such as Syria, Lebanon and Iran (amongst others), become no-go zones.
In fact, as noted in various travel forums and by The Times (UK) travel section, immigration officials may simply look for signs of a visit to Israel and turn you away. This can include checks of baggage tags on your luggage or, according to Foreign Affairs and International Trade Canada, "an Egyptian or Jordanian border stamp issued by an office bordering Israel (such a stamp would indicate that the traveller entered from Israel)."
Due to the ever-changing political climate in the Middle East, the countries that won't accept passports with an Israeli stamp may change at any time, so be sure to check individual countries' embassies for the latest information before heading on your trip. This will likely involve making phone calls as official policies in this regard are difficult to find online. (This is not altogether surprising. The Israeli government is not particularly excited to advertise with which countries they have diplomatic disputes.)
igoogledisrael.com is a tourism website written by a collective of writers and bloggers either from or living in Israel, and is an excellent source of finding out the latest events and news from the country. This list is the latest, according to their knowledgeable contributors:
Arab countries that accept visitors with Israeli stamped passports:
- · United Arab Emirates
- · Egypt
- · Jordan
- · Oman
- · Morocco
Countries that DO NOT accept visitors with Israeli stamped passports:
- · Syria
- · Lebanon
- · Libya
- · Kuwait
- · Iran
- · Iraq
- · Saudi Arabia
- · Sudan
- · Yemen
So, despite the challenges (or perhaps because of them), you still want to witness the historical sights of Jerusalem and then dance the night away in Beirut's world-class nightclubs? Or wander the art galleries of Tehran? There are a few ways this is possible:
1. Just ask nicely
It has become common practice to simply ask Israeli border officials to place their stamp on a separate piece of paper. According to a large number of travellers, by simply asking nicely it is likely that the guard will just stamp a piece of paper not in your passport that you can conveniently "lose" after leaving Israel. (Remember not to have this in your bag when you head off to the Arab country in question!)
The consensus from travellers on website forums - including Fodor's, Frommer's and Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree – is that this practice is extremely common and generally hassle-free. However, it is very important to note that, while probable, this is not the official policy of the Israeli government and your request may be rejected, or you may have to spend extra time with border guards explaining your request.
While being turned down for this piece of paper is quite unlikely, it may result in immigration stamping your passport instead. This could mean difficulties for your trip, if you intend on visiting Arab countries afterwards.
2. Go the other way
While the aforementioned countries will not let you in with an Israeli stamp in your passport, that is not the same in reverse. If you enter Israel after an Arab country and are there just for tourism, you will be let in. Border guards may need to be convinced that you are just there as a tourist, but once that happens, you will be allowed to enter Israel. According to both the Irish Independent/Lonely Planet and igoogleisrael, heading to Israel after visiting these Arab countries might mean you have to spend a little more time chatting with immigration officials at the border, but the Israeli government has no official policy denying entrance to tourists who have visited these countries first and so you should eventually be permitted to enter.
In other words, enjoy the nightlife in Beirut at the beginning of your trip, then head to Israel to recover on the beaches of Tel Aviv.
Note: At this time, there are no open land borders between Lebanon or Syria and Israel and so you will need to go to another country before heading into Israel, whether by land or by air.
3. Get two passports
This is possible if you are a dual citizen and happen to have your hands on both passports. Fly into Israel on one passport and then make your way from Israel to a third country, such as Cyprus or Jordan, on the same passport. From that country, use the second passport and fly to the Arab country of your choice. This is a completely accepted and legal practice, and is the most certain way of completing your journey if you intend on heading to Israel first.
Be wary of having any luggage tags from Israel, however, as this could still result in you being turned away at the border.
All of these options require having to go through an intermediary country. But when faced with the incredible history, beautiful scenery and spectacular food that all countries in the Middle East have on offer, having to spend a couple of days in Cyprus sounds like a pretty good inconvenience to have!
My wife and I have 11 days for our visit and have always had a particular interest in Jerusalem, leading us to choose the following route for our trip:
- · Land in Tel Aviv. Spend two nights eating great seafood and two days relaxing at the beach
- · Bus to Eilat in the south and head to the nearby Jordanian border crossing. From there go to Wadi Musa, Jordan, the base for visiting Petra
- · Be blown away by Petra for a day or two, then head back across the same border crossing into Israel and up to Jerusalem. (this will be on a Friday, meaning we have to be sure to catch the bus before the sun goes down and the Sabbath begins!)
- · Spend a few days seeing the historically significant sights in Jerusalem and use the city as a launching off point for visiting the ruins of Masada and going for a float in the Dead Sea
- · Head into Palestine and spend a night in the pretty town of Bethlehem
- · Return to Tel Aviv for a night and enjoy the party vibe, before (sigh) heading back home
Hi Olga,
To follow up with your comment, our trip went great and while it was definitely a lot of moving around for 11 days, was fantastic.
The Dead Sea was beautiful - and a lot of fun. It was also a balmy 45C(!), but that didn't stop anyone from loving it!
http://www.travelbugger.com/photo
Noah
Posted by: Noah Wheelock | 08/14/2011 at 11:31 AM
Your visit sounds nice. It's good you're taking few days just to enjoy the beaches of Tel-Aviv, because you will need a lot of energy for the rest of the trip.
Try to spend a night at Dead sea, it's an amazing place, a must see in Israel and it might become one of the New7Wonders (vote here: http://www.facebook.com/VoteDeadSea ).
And don't forget it's VERY hot summer in Israel, so a lot of water and less walking during the hot hours
Posted by: Olga | 07/08/2011 at 04:52 PM